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Cherry Tree Hotel

Where: 53 Balmain St, Cremorne

Phone: 5796 9393

Internet: www.cherrytreehotel.com.au

SCORE: 15/20

AUGUST 28

VENUE: Straight to the chase: The Cherry Tree is flying.

Revamped, remodelled, this hard to find backstreet pub in Cremorne/Richmond is packing them in. The ‘front garden’, with narrow thoroughfares and factories aplenty, is a different and dynamic spot to watch the passing parade, while the bar and restaurant hum along.

Organisation is key and wisened heads run the show, supported by excellent menus covering favourites and new alike.

Very fair pricing for the quality, with one absolute standout: Steak Day. Wednesday. All day, each of the four cuts are reduced by 40 per cent, meaning a fully plated Cape Grim porterhouse is served at $27.

But that’s only part of the story. Other nights there are food/drink specials but the Cherry Tree has an all ages appeal. Lunch workers, blue and white collars, turn up in numbers.

The Cherry Tree, with its chequered history long gone, will be a dining/gathering hub for a long time to come. Well done to the team.

MENU: Excellent pub menu, covering clever starters, classics, up scale mains (priced fairly) and some interesting desserts to finish (Sticky Date Madeleines!).

Here’s a quick sample: Entrees: Buffalo chicken wings, $19, brown butter buffalo hot sauce, blue cheese, ranch, crudite or Welsh rarebit croquettes – three/$17 w/malt vinegar mayo, pickled mustard seeds. Recommended.

Mains: From the reliable chicken schnitzel ($27) herb and parmesan crumbed, chips, butter leaf salad, lemon and choice of a sauce to the elegant Otway pork scotch fillet ($34) w/ burnt chilli nuoc mam, papaya and grilled pineapple salad.

This is pub dining covering all bases.

Melbourne Bitter on tap ($8), has Jetty Road IPA and Little Creatures Pale amongst others for company. Plenty of wine to choose from; a mix of familiar and little known labels. Tried was West Cape Howe (WA) Riesling at $12.5/pg.

Average Prices:
Entrees/Starters: $20
Mains: $30
Desserts: $15
Surcharges: Not shown
Beer: $8/pot
Wine: $14.5 pg
Roast: Not displayed
Tab: No.
Pokies: No.
Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; Cherry Tree, Cremorne, Cape Grim porterhouse, 300g, fully plated, $46.

HIGHLIGHT/S:
Main: Cape Grim porterhouse, 300g, fully plated, $46. Wednesday special, $27. Just doesn’t miss.

Excellent produce from Cape Grim, but Wednesday the pub takes 40 per cent from every steak (four cuts in all). The more you eat (on Wednesday) the more you save. And best, no short steps taken with the meal.

Something Different to Eat: Starter: Mortadella skewers (two/$21) w/stracciatella, crisp chili oil, pistachio crumb. The skewer invasion into pubs commenced four years ago, but haven’t seen Mortadella as an option. Screamingly popular meat, with some nice friends, make this a fine dish.

Summary: When this pub resided in Richmond in the 1980s, it was a place where hardened and notorious men and women gathered. Bad and Mad who had scant, no make that no, regard to the law. Melbourne’s underworld resided here. Ron Barassi, Adrian Gallagher and Scot Palmer managed to keep them in check!

Now it resides in Cremorne. The pub has had its share of facelifts, but this version is very, very good.

The Backstreets, in spite of little parking, work to its advantage, and inside, it is a popular meeting place.

Highlights are many, but the fact that there is a person in charge, on the floor, at all times, cannot be understated. The Cherry Tree is flying.

Contender for Pub of the Year honours.