HELIOS HOTEL

256 Glenferrie Rd, Malvern

Press PLAY to hear Monssen’s full review of Hotel Helios

Malvern’s new Greek restaurant is colossal in both size and ambition. Helios Hotel is three-levels, seats 300 people and has a menu bulging at the binders.

This even includes a dedicated A4-sized page for appetizers. If you’re from the motherland, you will appreciate that each menu item is also written in Greek.

When you arrive, there’s an army of white-shirted, black aproned waiters that’ll greet you at the door. The Glenferrie Rd venue is also the largest Melbourne restaurant (for now) by owners Ioannis Kasidokostas and Maria Tsilfoglou.

Then comes the food, which doubles down on the larger than life trope.

Ioannis calls the shots in the kitchen, peddling a feast of classic and modern takes on Hellenic cuisine. Once you’ve digested the mammoth menu, a cocktail made with Greek spirits may be in order.

Most spirits are shipped in from Greece, or you could reach for a glass of native wine (that reach beyond the typical assyrtiko or xinomavro).

On food, the fig and black olive tapenade dip is a great place to start served alongside spelt bread that’s so large it looks like a cake.

It’s equally light and fluffy with an almighty crunch, with the sweet and salty dip working wonders alongside.

A housemade halloumi, tricked up in a vibrant red pepper and raisin salsa, is incredibly moreish. Or even sweet prawn meat jumbled with fluffy pilaf rice and wrapped snug in silverbeet for a new-age riff on dolmades. They’re so light, it’s hard to stop at one.

Perhaps you’ll try the plump, dumpling-sized mutton and beef “manti”, which I’m told are not on any other Greek restaurant menus around town. Many may be familiar with Turkish “manti” served as bead-sized ravioli in brown butter and yoghurt. At Helios, they follow a similar formula, just with slippery and silky supersized parcels in a kefir and burnt butter sauce. They’re delicious, though filling. One of Helios’ signature dishes is the ‘Lamb of the Gods’. The meat is fall-apart tender, wrapped in vine leaves and bathed in a silky, rich jus made from chocolate dupe carob.

It’s salty and robust, yet screams out for a side.

Save your money and choose from one of the three and four-course set-menus, instead of a la carte. It’s better value in the long run, especially when the appetizers are noticeably expensive.

Another tip? Book ahead. Despite being touted as a three-level eating house, only the downstairs dining room is in full swing when I visit.

The first floor, I’m later told, is for large groups of more than 10, while the rooftop bar will operate when they boost staff numbers. Helios Hotel has a larger than life mentality, but checks out where it matters: with consistent, quality cooking, a decent drinks selection and warm service.

Images: Instagram/@helioshotel.melbourne