Emilia checks out a restaurant she says is a ‘heartfelt’ ode to Thailand

Press PLAY to hear Emilia’s full review

Khao Man Gai

389 Lonsdale St, Melbourne

This is one of those reviews where it starts with “the internet says…”.

This week is a CBD eat that promises to have some of the most authentic and best Khao Man Gai in Melbourne. Khao Man Gai literally means “fatty chicken rice”, so the restaurant itself is named after this one dish and is a big flashing sign to Fatty Chicken Rice …sounds a bit nicer in Thai, right? Let’s keep calling it the Thai version.

This family restaurant on the corner of Hardware Lane says in bold letters on the wall, “SIMPLE BUT TASTY”- they know their niche and they stick to it. There are QR codes on the small tables, and you can grab a jug and some glasses of water for yourself. The dining is designed for ease, speed and efficiency, but the food delivers much more than just a quick eat.   

Seeing as they named their whole restaurant after the dish, you’d expect that they do it well and in spades. The owners assert that they’re the only restaurant in Melbourne to dedicate itself to this specific dish. So let’s talk about the dish before I get ahead of myself.

The thing about Khao Man Gai is that, whilst yes, it is simple, it also takes a lot of patience – the whole chicken is gently poached, imparting flavorful oils into the broth. That same broth lovingly steeps the garlic-laced rice, ensuring each grain is aromatic and savoury. You’ve likely had a version of Khao Man Gai from any other Asian culture; it’s Thailand’s take on Hainanese chicken rice. What sets it apart is the bold, savoury dipping sauce made with fermented soybean paste, garlic, ginger, chilli, vinegar, and sometimes lime – giving it a distinctly pungent and complex flavour that complements the simplicity of the chicken and rice.

In contrast, the Hainanese version, popular in Singapore and Malaysia, leans toward a cleaner, more delicate flavour profile. The dish emphasises the aroma of the rice, which is also cooked in a rich chicken broth, and is typically paired with a number of sauces. While both dishes share the same roots, their regional adaptations reflect the local palate and culinary traditions.

In order to expand your Khao Man Gai repertoire, you can choose between 9 variations of the dish – something for everyone. Some of your choices are: original, fried chicken, a combo, the Melburnian, the vegetarian and the super clean – meaning however you Khao Man Gai, there’s something to suit your tastes. 

I have to add my voice to the chorus of positive reviews of this Khao Man Gai. I chose the combo, which is half fried chicken and half poached. For me, fried chicken is definitely the way to go; it’s not fried in batter like you might be imagining – it is fried only in the chicken skin itself. The flavour was perfect, golden and crunchy, and it sat on a bed of garlic rice, which was fragrant and moreish. And the broth on the side was completely healing; I could drink it out of a drink bottle, honestly.

Beyond chicken rice, expect unexpected yet delightful extras like prawn toast, prawn crackers, and desserts such as mango sticky rice or coconut ice cream. Lavish drinks like Thai milk tea and even a milk tea slushie add to the charm. But beyond that, we also chose to have their Tom Yum Soup as our second main, and the only tip I can give you for this is not to wear white. The sweet and sour soup provided exactly what I needed, especially as I’m getting a bit sick – nothing Tom Yum can’t fix. It wasn’t too spicy, but I can’t tell if they just saw me coming and assumed I couldn’t handle spice. 

Khao Man Gai is a heartfelt ode to Thai comfort food at its best – putting the spotlight squarely on humble ingredients elevated with care. From the lily‑soft poached chicken, the fried, maybe slightly indulgent version and fragrant garlic rice to the vibrant sauces and relaxed vibe, it’s a standout in Melbourne’s bustling food scene, and that’s saying a lot on Hardware Lane. 

Whether you’re looking for a lunch or dinner spot that will really hit, need some soul-nourishing food in the Khao Man Gai or the Tom Yum Soup, or just want a meal under $20, Khao Man Gai answers more than one of those calls.

Image: Supplied