Emilia checks out a venue perfect for Valentine’s Day

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La Perla

625 Camberwell Rd

Camberwell.

If you’ve tried getting a restaurant booking for Valentine’s Day this week, you probably know it’s slim pickings. Everything’s booked out or only offering those rigid set menus. But if you live anywhere near Camberwell, there’s a little window of hope, and it’s called La Perla.

It’s a suburban Italian restaurant that somehow manages to feel romantic, genuinely local, and just that perfect level of polished. The name La Perla means “the pearl,” which is a lovely nod to their wood-fired pizza oven that’s actually named Pearl. You walk through the kitchen and right past her to reach the courtyard out the back. It’s exactly where you want to be on a warm summer night with a bottle of red and someone whose company you really like.

Owners Nick and Steph Dedes have built a place that feels personal. They also run Willow in Hawthorn, so they know what makes a neighbourhood spot work. La Perla is warm, relaxed and attractive; it feels romantic but nostalgic with nods to Nonna’s cooking in all corners of the place.

We started with drinks. The first was a Southside cocktail made with gin that’s actually distilled right there in Camberwell. I always love a local restaurant that actually stocks local. It’s light, minty and refreshing, and sets the tone for the night. Then came a 2024 Ephemera Rosso Dolcetto, a Victorian red that’s bright and juicy and works perfectly with the food.

That’s not where the local support ends, though. A look through their tagged photos on Instagram will reveal a number of local sporting clubs, school fetes and local causes that La Perla supports. They’re not just serving Camberwell, they’re actually a part of the community. 

 

Now, the food. The first dish that hit the table was what they call the “watermelon bruschetta.” I’ll admit, I wasn’t sure about it until I took the first bite. It’s essentially a slice of juicy watermelon layered with olive tapenade, sliced tomato and fresh basil. Somehow it all comes together. You get salty, sweet and fragrant all at once. It’s weird on paper, but it absolutely works.

Then came the chicken pâté. It’s smooth and rich with this deep, porty flavour, served alongside quince, apple and a sweet balsamic onion jam. It’s one of those entrées where you find yourself running out of bread because you’re trying to scoop up every last bit.

The standout for me, though, was the pasta. They do a dish called fregnacce. Now this one’s worth explaining because it’s not something you see often. Fregnacce is a type of pasta from the Abruzzo region in Italy, where the chef’s family is from. It’s made with sheets of pasta that are folded and baked with a beef and tomato ragù, then finished with grated Grana Padano cheese. The name actually translates loosely to “a mistake” or “a mess,” because it’s basically what happens when you fold pasta unevenly and bake it. But it works beautifully. The result is this rustic, bubbling dish with crispy edges on top and soft, saucy folds underneath. It’s the kind of comfort food that makes you go quiet halfway through because you’re too busy enjoying it.

 

And then the pizzas arrived. The Spicy Boi got a big reaction at our table, and yes, that’s actually what it’s called on the menu. It’s topped with nduja, a spicy Calabrian sausage spread, along with pickled onions, jalapeno and scarmorza cheese, which melts in that smoky way you only get from a wood oven. It’s got a bit of a kick, but it’s not overpowering. Then,    on the other end of the spectrum, there’s the mushroom pizza. That one’s more of a slow burn, all earthy and cheesy with pine nuts and a creamy white base. It’s one of those quiet achievers that sneaks up on you as the favourite.

 

They don’t forget the sides either. We had roasted broccoli with lemon dressing and fresh ricotta, and fries dusted with truffle salt. Both are simple but spot on. The broccoli is charred just enough to give it that nutty flavour, and the ricotta adds lightness.

What I like about La Perla is that it doesn’t feel like it’s trying too hard. It’s not about chasing trends or creating food for Instagram. It’s about being a place that locals actually use. Somewhere you could book for a special night like Valentine’s, but also somewhere you’d happily walk into midweek and share a pizza and a glass of wine. Also, a great bonus is that if you go on Sundays, you get Sunday specials and a $12 kids’ menu.

Images: Supplied