Emilia pits two of AFL’s finest food venues against each other

Press PLAY to hear Emilia’s review of two AFL greats food venue

Arthur’s Milkbar

124-126 Edgevale Road, Kew

With footy finals around the corner, it’s only fitting we pit two of the AFL’s finest against each other, off the field and behind the pass. In one corner: Arthur’s Milkbar, a new café in Kew co-owned by Western Bulldogs captain Marcus Bontempelli. In the other: Motor, a polished wine bar in Hawthorn backed by Melbourne’s captain, old Max Gawn. 

Co-owned by Bont and his partner Neila Brenning, Arthur’s is a nostalgic nod to the classic Aussie milk bar, reimagined through a cool, diner-style lens. The exposed brick, vintage signage, leather banquettes- and yes, lolly bags at the counter – make it feel local and lived-in. You could picture Bont here on a day off, sipping a strong Inglewood flat white, fielding praise from tradies and toddlers alike. And trust me – there are tradies. You don’t get that crowd unless you’re doing it right.

Just like Bontempelli’s game- clean, creative, and composed, the food plays with texture and flavour but never tries too hard.

We started with the Turkish Egg Omelette- a standout that demonstrated their ability to blend cultural references with café classics. This wasn’t your average omelette. The three-egg base was soft but structured, and the whipped herbed lemon yoghurt on top was airy, citrusy, and fragrant. 

I could hardly visit Bontempelli’s café without getting some Italian flavours to leave with. So, the Wagyu Lamb Meatballs caught my eye; the meatballs themselves were incredibly tender, rich with the depth of wagyu lamb, yet balanced by the slight gaminess that gave them character. They came bathed in a smoked chilli Napoli sauce that felt more rustic Italian than café-style. A dollop of creamy buffalo ricotta added an interesting but welcomed element of lightness.

In a city where brunch menus often blend into one another, Arthur’s has real identity. It’s inventive, grounded, and quietly excellent- just like the man himself.

 

Motor

735 Glenferrie Road, Hawthorn

Hope you left some room for dinner because we’re going just down the road to Motor. Max Gawn doesn’t do things by halves, and Motor is no exception. Set in Victoria’s oldest purpose-built motor garage (1912), the venue honours its history without leaning on it. Inside, it’s slick but not sterile- chequered floors, soft curves, walnut tables, and a subtle European bistro vibe. No memorabilia. No gimmicks. Just a serious hospitality setup with serious hospitality people behind it.

Think of it as the centre-half forward of venues – big presence, precise execution.

Without much encouragement needed, but happily welcomed by the waiter’s suggestion to load up on snacks, we started with the Scallop with burnt pear & tamarind butter, which was refined and smoky – just enough flair and a quail skewer brought sweet-sharp hits of persimmon and pomegranate with flame-licked quail – ie, cooked in the Josper.

For mains, a half roast chicken was pure comfort, with tarragon, corn, and mustard lifting it well above standard fare. And we went on what happened to be Beef & Burgundy Night, the Porterhouse was a star performer- charred, juicy, and paired with cowboy butter, fries, and a butter lettuce wedge. A classic combo done right.

Don’t skip the Brussels sprouts with pepperberry vinaigrette- punchy, unexpected, and a brilliant side play.

The Verdict?

If Arthur’s is a quick-thinking mid with finesse and flair, Motor is the dominant ruckman: powerful, dependable, and surprisingly elegant in motion.

Both venues reflect their owners. Bontempelli brings class, creativity and thoughtful flavour to Kew. Gawn backs substance and strength in Hawthorn, without ever being heavy-handed.

These two footy stars have well and truly crossed into elite food territory. 

Image: Supplied.