Emilia reviews a brand new northern Thai restaurant with an iconic owner!
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From a back street in Geelong, the smell of burning redgum fills a colourfully fitted out, chic, character filled northern Thai restaurant based on the food in Chiang Mai.
Comparative to their previous iteration, Igni, they’ve added more tables and more colour but kept the open fire and the heart.
Owner, Aaron Turner says he doesn’t want to be pigeonholed with the grilled, smokey flavour the open fire gives – it’s a more-ish flavour once you start cooking (and eating with it).
There are little stories hidden in every corner of the place; the massive, green rimmed mirror was made by owner, Jo and her father, the sideboard with cutlery in it was once housed in a brothel, beautifully juxtaposed they have red framed pew seats from a church in Daylesford.
We went on their third day of service, with little information available online we plunged into the unexpected. Lucky enough to be served by one of the owners, Jo; she immediately took us on a northern Thai experience.
Explaining that “we’d find less curries, coconut and seafood as it is further from the ocean”. With this version of Thai, over the open grill there were elements of it that reminded me of Peruvian cooking – rich flavours enhanced by smokiness and laced with spice, acid and pickles. “These elements all combine to create a beautiful balance of sour, sweet, salty and heat.”
And as a bonus, the menu is completely gluten and dairy free!
We took mornings’ panel operator Antonio with us who’d never tried Thai before, he’s starting at a high standard.
I could have eaten fistfuls of the dry duck curry paste, roasted peanuts that we started with and at Songbird, eating with your fingers is encouraged, which is lucky considering the other starters.
Soured pork ribs which were covered in Thai sriracha and left you licking any remaining sriracha off your fingers.
Not the easiest dish to eat but worthwhile if you’re into it is the char grilled half quail topped with thai chilli dipping sauce.
Lastly, to get your face and fingers dirty, grilled corn ribs.
For mains we took recommendations on the best, most authentic northern Thai dishes; I was surprised to find a pork sausage on the menu but infused with authentic, fresh Thai spices and with a onion jam to heap on top with pork crackle to the side, I got it.
Jo explained that due to Chang Mai being more inland there was less seafood on the menu other than prawns and a curried Murray cod on the mains, so there was our choice, wrapped and grilled in banana leaf and enveloped with flavour and spice. Of course Thai, let alone northern Thai meal is complete without sticky rice.
Scorcher’s favourite, laap graced the menu in the form of the elevated smoked minced duck, heapings of shallots and lemongrass boosted the flavour as well as a generous serving of chilli which perfectly showed us that lack of coconut milk that the north of Thailand exhibits – it pushes the chilli further and packs a punch.
In our attempt to cool our mouths we naively reached for the green papaya salad with snake beans and smoked dried shrimp. Delicious, fresh and characteristically crunchy. So good.
With that said, remember we had first time Thai-goer Antonio with us – he gave everything a go and loved everything. New flavours like lemongrass, Thai basil, heapings of lime and lime leaf and even the grilled method awakened new tastes buds – we might have awoken a foodie.
Having already earned two hats for the previous restaurant Igni, expectations are high for Songbird. Aaron and Jo alongside head chef Nathan have changed their tact but certainly not their commitment to bringing great food to Geelong.
Every part of it feels considered and polished, the feel is welcoming and exciting. I can’t wait to see the tables filled with delighted customers, they’re so deserving.
It’s open Wednesday to Saturday, 5 pm – 10 pm.
Songbird
2 Ryan Place South, Rear of 205, 207 Moorabool St
Geelong