Emilia reviews a CBD slow-smoked BBQ joint
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Fancy Hank’s
79 Bourke Street, Melbourne
If you didn’t know what you were looking for, you could easily walk past Fancy Hank’s—tucked upstairs in a heritage-listed building right in the heart of the city. But once you step inside, the smell of hickory smoke hits first, followed by the sound of glasses clinking and Motown humming in the background. You’re no longer in Melbourne. You’re somewhere in the Deep South—through the lens of a Melbourne pitmaster.
Fancy Hank’s is a slow-smoked BBQ joint that takes its meat very seriously, but never takes itself too seriously. It’s a place where brisket meets bourbon, and sticky fingers are a sign you ordered right.
We went in with a hunger that only fire-cooked food can fix, and walked out already planning a return. The Half Ribs, were the first to land—perfectly charred bark on the outside, fall-apart tender inside, with a dry rub that’s peppery, smoky, and just sweet enough to make you lick your fingers in public. The Smoked Chicken surprised us. Usually the lighter option, this bird had no business being that juicy. Topped with house-made pickles and served with a mustard slaw, it held its own against the heavyweights.
But the Lamb Shank, might have been the sleeper hit of the night. It came nestled in its own rendered juices, with meat that peeled back with a spoon. Herbaceous, fall off the bone, deeply comforting.
Sides are more than an afterthought here—they’re stars in their own right. The Fancy Mac & Cheese, walks that line between creamy and crispy, topped with burnt ends that could honestly have been a meal on their own. Coleslaw, brought a needed crunch and vinegar brightness, cutting through the richness, while the Corn Ribs, were charred and dusted with chipotle salt—sweet, spicy, gone too fast.
We shared a Potato Roll, warm, soft, unapologetically carby, and a Deviled Egg, that’s a one-bite wonder—classic tang with a dusting of smoked paprika. Buffalo Wings, packed a punch, nicely sauced and crisp-skinned, even better washed down with one of their signature bourbons or local beers.
Dessert didn’t disappoint. The Coffee Bourbon Sundae, felt like something you eat too fast then immediately regret… only because it’s finished. Bitter coffee notes balanced the sweetness, and the bourbon gave it that adult edge. We wrapped up with Rice Crispies -a cheeky nod to childhood, toasted and just the right amount of sticky.
As for the price point, it’s not the cheapest meal in town, but you’re paying for quality, care, and portion sizes that actually fill you up. It’s easy to rack up a bill, but not hard to feel like it was worth it.
They’ve also made it easier to commit with weekly specials, events, and “Feed Me” options if you can’t decide (or don’t want to). These deals give you a taste of their greatest hits, and they change things up enough to justify becoming a regular. On Wednesdays it’s all about wings, Sundays they fire up a roast, and throughout the week there’s always a deal that softens the blow of city dining.
Fancy Hank’s isn’t just dinner—it’s an experience built around smoke, soul, and good company. Whether you’re going for the ribs or the bourbon sundae, come hungry, leave full, and maybe a little bit sauced.
Images: Supplied