Emilia reviews an understated local favourite in Hawthorn

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Ocha


3-5 Church Street, Hawthorn

Tucked just off Burwood Road in the Beehive complex, Ocha is understated from the get go – notice the sleek, understated signage and the flicker of soft lighting beyond the front glass. No flashing neon, no bold declarations – just quiet confidence. 

Step inside and it feels more like entering someone’s calm, carefully curated dining room than a restaurant. Cream walls, warm timber accents, and the gentle hum of conversation – there’s a kind of minimal elegance that sets the tone before a single dish lands at your table. But don’t mistake “minimal” for lacking in character. Every detail feels intentional – from the low, ambient lighting to the display of Ocha’s own cookbook at the door. Yes, they’ve published a cookbook.

The locals love this place. You can tell by the quiet nods between diners and staff, by the familiarity of returning patrons welcomed like friends. Ocha’s been serving modern Japanese fare to Melbourne for over 30 years, first in Kew and now from its polished Hawthorn home. It feels like part of the neighbourhood’s fabric – a place where birthdays are celebrated, first dates become second dates, and regulars don’t even need to open the menu.

But we did. And it’s a good one.

Here’s what we ate and drank:

We started with a refreshing Yuzu Spritz and a crisp Kirin beer to set the mood. 

For starters, we couldn’t resist the Hokkaido Scallops, which were beautifully seared and served with a delicate balance of sweetness and umami – the perfect introduction to the meal. The Okonomiyaki came next, a Japanese-style pancake with crisp edges and a soft centre, topped with bonito that melted and danced with the heat of the dish.

The Soft Shell Crab Slider was a crowd-pleaser: crunchy, lightly battered crab tucked into a soft, pillowy bun. It was salty, sweet, and the kind of thing you could eat far too many of without even noticing. 

The Beef Tataki was another standout though, tender slices of beef lightly seared and dressed in a citrusy soy sauce. It was refreshing and clean, yet packed with flavour. We also tried the Cauliflower Panko, a surprisingly delightful dish with crispy, golden panko crusted cauliflower served with a creamy miso dip – simple but addictive. We tried the vego option but there’s also fried chicken and popcorn chicken on the menu.

For something a little heartier, we had the Gyoza Dumplings – plump, juicy pockets of pork and vegetables, pan-seared to golden perfection, with a tangy dipping sauce that brought everything together. 

To round off our shared plates, we ordered the Combo Platter, which included a variety of Ocha’s favorites, allowing us to sample a little bit of everything. I wouldn’t put it in front of Ross just from the sheer amount of raw fish but for those who get around sashimi and nigiri for $45 this is the way to try a bit of everything – salmon, kingfish, tuna…

For the main, we went for the Shiokoji Chicken –  marinated in koji and grilled to a slight char. It was juicy, tender, and served with a Japanese slaw and a touch of yuzukosho that added a tangy, spicy kick. 

Here’s the thing about Ocha, if you’re a local you don’t need me to remind you that it isn’t flashy- if you’re not a local – I need to tell you that that’s what makes it special. 

From that tiny butcher’s shop in Kew, where Yasu and Michelle’s vision was to bring authentic Japanese food to Melbourne, using traditional techniques and local, seasonal produce for thirty years on…hospitality isn’t easy – if institutions like Ocha are lasting, it’s not by accident. Yasu and Michelle continue to pour their hearts into each plate, ensuring every meal reflects their commitment to quality. They continue to be community minded – you can bring your own wine to lunch or dinner (Tuesday through Thursday) for just $15 per person corkage. It’s a perfect way to enjoy their exceptional Japanese cuisine with a personal touch.

Image: Supplied