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Emilia reviews what’s being described as ‘the best Thai in the north’

emilia reviews
Article image for Emilia reviews what’s being described as ‘the best Thai in the north’

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Rin Sura

206 Sydney Road, Brunswick

Rin Sura literally means ‘pouring drinks’, so strap in.

If you’ve been searching for Thai food that balances tradition with a modern edge, Rin Sura delivers. Tucked into Brunswick’s bustling Sydney Road, this unassuming spot has been quietly building a reputation for inventive dishes and cocktails. I went with my housemate who takes her family here when they want a good local Thai place but she still wants great food, but she’s not the first person who’s told me about Rin Sura, another friend insisted it was one of the best Thai spots in the north – refined without being fussy, relaxed but still a bit special. A few dishes in and we were already planning a return.

Owned by a trio with diverse cultural backgrounds, Rin Sura leans into a moody, upmarket aesthetic: think dim lighting, dark interiors, and a bar-ready atmosphere that feels more inner-city than suburban strip. Rin Sura is the work of partners Kelly and Josh, who also run café favourite Sweet Evelyn just around the corner. Their foray into dinner service began in 2019, driven by a love for Thai cuisine and a desire to create something that sat between casual and fine dining. Kelly brings a background in hospitality management and front-of-house warmth, while Josh leads in the kitchen, drawing influence from time spent travelling through Thailand. The result is a menu that respects the foundations of traditional Thai cooking, while leaning into seasonal local produce and a few playful twists—think burrata with roti, or massaman curry made with wagyu cheek. It’s confident, contemporary, and clearly made with heart.

The menu is a mix of Thai street food staples and creative twists, with vegan options peppered throughout. 

In these times where just living is so expensive I appreciate hospitality venues that are aware a night out might be a once in a blue moon event. Rin Sura has deals every weeknight to ensure you can enjoy a mela with them without breaking the bank – Monday is $25 Wok & Rice, Tuesday you can get your spritz’ for $12, Wednesday is curry, rice and roti for $30 and Thursday, to my delight because it’s the night I went is $16 margaritas. So we tried the Thai Spicy Margaritas, which were worth every sip -zesty, fiery, and dangerously drinkable.

We started with another special in the baked scallops that came next, delicate and caramelised with just a hint of lemongrass. 

My housemate told me her family come back for this one dish specifically – the roasted miso pumpkin stole the show – the creamy, nutty and smoky, with a silky texture and bursts of umami that made it the dish of the night. Whether you would normally go for a meat free dish or not, this has to be in your choices if you get down to Rin Sura.

We continued to indulge with the glazed pork ribs that were sticky and rich, falling off the bone with just the right amount of sweetness and wok-fried karaage chicken cashew which brought the crunch, peppery and bright. 

On the recommendation of the waitress we happily chose the wagyu beef cheek massaman which was a slow-cooked, deeply fragrant hug in a bowl. Everything was soaked up with mix grain rice – nutty and hearty, the perfect foil to the richness of the sauces.

Opt for the Rin Sura Tour (chef’s menu) if you’re indecisive or want to sample their range. Recent diners call it a “spectacular” way to explore their menu depth, though service can slow during peak hours and it’s only $50.

We were a walk in and we were pretty happy to find out there was an outdoor seating area because of it. The tables around us began to fill up too so I would recommend booking in the future but I think you could still try your luck.

Price wise, I was super impressed to find the most expensive dish on our menu was the wagyu beef cheek massaman at $32. 98% of the ‘Share with friends’ were all under $20 and almost all the mains (bar the massaman and one other) sat around $26-28. If you’re looking for a good feed for two, including drinks for under $150, I found one!

Images: Supplied

emilia reviews
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