Jacqui Felgate reviews: Centonove — ‘the best service in Melbourne’

You know that bar where everybody knows your name?

The one where you don’t have to look at the wine list because the bartender knows exactly what you want? And on this busy Friday afternoon, the regulars were tucked in at their usual table by the window.

If you venture over to Melbourne’s leafy east, you’ll find a little gem — Centonove in Kew. It’s one of those great locals, a place those in the area know well but outsiders have probably never heard of.

Press PLAY below to hear Jacqui’s review

A thoroughly enjoyable lunch began with tuna crudo, trout roe, pickled cucumber cultured cream and shiso ($24) A perfectly balanced dish followed by a classic fritto misto. ($25) The extra details took the dish of prawns, scallops and calamari to another level, lightly seasoned, and just the right amount of crunch – and a caper aioli.

Mains include spaghettini with spanner crab, capers, tomato chilli and garlic, ($35), John Dory with sweetcorn, zucchini flower, crab and pancetta ($42) and roasted duck leg with cotechino, lentils, carrot puree and broad beans ($39)

While the menu is Italian in origin there’s something very London about Centonove. It’s got that ripper pub on the corner vibe.

The difference? There’s no stodgy fish and chips on the menu here. It’s fine dining and even better service.

With a lack of staff across the industry and many venues resorting to QR codes for ordering, Centonove makes sure you certainly feel special.

And by the end of the afternoon, everyone knows your name.

Centonove
109 Cotham Road, Kew
centonove.com.au

See Jacqui’s past reviews HERE.