Jacqui Felgate reviews: Moonhouse — ‘changing the face of Cantonese dining’

Moonhouse is changing the face of Cantonese dining – but the best bits from your childhood remain.

Set in a magnificent art deco building in Balaclava, the former Ilona Staller (and Red Rooster) site has been reinvented by the team behind Hanoi Hannah and Tokyo Tina. Dark, moody and utterly chic- it’s a space that makes you want to settle in for the evening.

Our waiter helped guide us through an impressive all Australian wine list (the exception, of course, Champagne) but the house special martini is also a winner.

The menu is sprinkled with nostalgia – prawn toast has been reimagined and comes with a prawn bisque dipping sauce. The Hainanese chicken club sandwich – inspired by the classic Hainan chicken rice – is already the most popular dish on the menu. Chicken stacked with cucumber, crispy skin topped with a fluffy round of white bread – and on the side – a chicken gravy for dipping. DO NOT MISS IT!

The chicken and prawn dumplings were swimming in a delicious chicken broth – perfect to ward off the winter chill. We also tried the economy noodle… it changes daily depending on what’s in the kitchen, the idea is to save on food waste. On the night we dined, the dish consisted of flat, chewy noodles and beef with a rich soy-based sauce.

We followed this with the Duck Ceremony. It’s essentially a peking duck, but the traditional crispy skin roast duck and pancakes are joined by a shredded confit duck, pickled cucumber and plum salt with hoisin.

Dessert was the fruit and jelly. Don’t be fooled. It’s a refreshing palate cleanser of delicate lychee jelly set in citrus skin.

Pro tip: don’t miss the upstairs bar and private dining room. There’s even a lazy susan. 

Moonhouse
282 Carlisle St, Balaclava
moonhouse.com.au