Jacqui Felgate reviews Victoria’s oldest inn

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From the moment you walk through the door, the Merrijig Inn is magic.

Built in 1845, it’s Victoria’s oldest inn… and dining here you feel like you’ve been taken back in time — to a time before gastro pubs, slick renovations and mass-produced meals.

Slanted floors, a low roof, a maze of tiny rooms, the magnificent kitchen garden, bocce on the back lawn, and the beer garden. It’s a country Victorian original and there’s a reason the Merrijig has been around for more than a century.

The tiny front bar is a ripper but we dined in the restaurant which is a series of smaller rooms, with a few tables in each, or you may even get a room all to yourself.

The menu changes daily, depending on what’s in season from the Inn’s garden and what local farmers produce. The staff at the Merrijig simply can’t do enough. Our waiter even made me a special gimlet when I mentioned the kind of cocktails I like. Our kids came along and while they don’t have a specific kids menu – fresh, homemade pasta with a butter sauce was so good I ate half of my daughter’s, and they finished with mini homemade pavlovas.

My dining companion is coeliac and instead of the gorgeous homemade focaccia we enjoyed, she was given a potato rosti decorated with tasty and edible flowers from the kitchen garden. Entrees included Portarlington mussels, duck liver parfait with lavosh and pickles (the pickles!!) and ‘Gary’s figs with halloumi, walnuts and honey’.

I can’t say enough how unpretentious this food is, but everything is just so elevated and delicious. I had house made duck egg pasta – the daily special was pappardelle with 3282 (Koroit postcode) mushrooms, snow peas and spinach — Heaven.

Our table also enjoyed a confit duck leg with rainbow chard and apricot, 24 hour lamb shoulder, seared mutton backstrap and zucchini, as well as a line caught snapper, smashed broad beans and harissa carrots. Everything was just perfect.

The wine list is an intriguing blend of local and international wines, I enjoyed a 2017 Müller-Catoir ‘Haardt’ Riesling from Germany  and moved onto a smooth pinot to finish, while taking a walk amongst the beautiful garden after the meal. Yes, Port Fairy is a bit of a drive from Melbourne but I promise you there’s a reason it’s been thriving since 1845.

Pro tip – stay over. The Merrijig is also a quaint boutique hotel! 

Merrijig Inn
1 Campbell St, Port Fairy
Ph: 5568 2324
merrijiginn.com