Kara Monssen checks out an affordable and authentic Thai restaurant in North Melbourne!

Joe Taylor

7 Errol Street, North Melbourne

Psssst. I have a secret. I’ve found a place where you can eat authentic Thai food without leaving the country, minus the exxy airfare. I’m sure you’ve heard that one before, but if you adore wine and looking to uncover a suburban gem, let me introduce you to Joe Taylor.

He’s a loveable chap, responsible for keeping North Melbourne locals jubilant on a Friday or Saturday night for many years. Now the longstanding Errol St cocktail bar has been given a Thai makeover, after being bought in May.

The new venture, of the same name, is run by Scot Nottle and his wife Pakchima Punapaprasurt. In the kitchen is chef Nopnapa Kasemratis, or Tan as she’s affectionately known. Here she’s cooking food inspired by her mother’s recipes.

Don’t worry, they still shake cocktails at Joe Taylor, but now Aussie wine labels with swagger are being pushed front and centre. Here’s a tip- buy the bottle and eat from the set menu. It’s more value for money to do things this way. Wine by the glass is expensive, especially if you’re after more than one.

Make sure you order a glass, or bottle, of the S C Pannel Fiano from McLaren Vale in South Australia. It works brilliantly with most snacks, with enough acidity and texture to counter the spice and fat found in Thai dishes.

You may start with the spanner crab wafer ($15 for one) which sees sweet meat tumbled in coconut cream, lime, roe and half macadamia nuts served on thong muan (coconut and black sesame wafer). The wafer doesn’t have much integrity, so eat it quickly before it crumbles in a heap.

The cold smoked duck miang kham ($14 each) is also brilliant, served on radicchio with tender duck breast, slaw, velvety duck liver pate and a punchy five spice and cherry gel.

Then there’s the odd kangaroo tartare ($27)— which comes out cooked. I’m told it gets a once over on the Hibachi (purely to impart that barbecue twang) though ours is largely cooked through. It’s delicious, but not what it says on the tin.

Large plates include a fried half-chook ($36) that’s been brined in pandan and Asian aromats, before being crumbed in coconut flakes and thrown in the fryer. It’s juicy, supple and crunchy where it counts. The chu chee tiger prawn curry ($35) has a rousing heat, with pickled rose petals and pink peppercorn. The petals aren’t pickled, yet the peppercorns add a welcome punch. Order a serve of rice with this for best results.

Joe Taylor isn’t reinventing the wheel– it’s just honest and delicious homestyle Thai cooking, alongside some delicious Aussie wine. And for a neighbourhood hang, what more can you ask for.

Images: Supplied