Pub of the Week: Builders Arms Hotel, Fitzroy
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Builders Arms Hotel
Where: 211 Gertrude St, Fitzroy
Phone: 9417 7700
Internet: www.buildersarmshotel.com.au
SCORE: 16/20
SEPTEMBER 19
VENUE: The pub from the outside resembles an era long gone, especially in Fitzroy, of sandy half height tiles, faded white exterior, and an inside of a long old wooden public bar that many a transaction would have taken place (or as Arthur Daley would say…”Import/Export Tel”) whilst the boys of ol’ Fitzroy or the equine deeds of Jack Purtell dominated the conversation.
The two indoor dining rooms are large and comfortable, without bells and whistles, with a neat beer garden to the rear; the large rotisserie is the feature.
But the Builders Arms Hotel (BAH) is the most admired pub (of many) in this area, and while it is easy to say it is the brainchild of leviathan restaurateur Andrew McConnell (a living Melbourne legend of hospitality), the parts that make the BAH are many, seamless and on point.
This is a wonderful pub experience from staff who engage, food and drink that excites, and the nostalgic in us all who remember yesteryear so fondly.
The pub part is led by its attention to tap beer e.g, Carlton Draught $8/pot, 4 Pines Japanese lager ($9), Mountain Goat ‘Billy the Mid’ Ale ($7.5).
The weekly specials; Mondays, porterhouse, full plate $25 or Tuesday, half rotisserie chicken, harissa, tabouleh, toum (aioli) $25.
An encyclopedia of wine is offered, with different varietals and producers from across the globe.
Celebration of the footy (and finals) runs in the veins, and to top it off a steady stream of pub goers/families filling every space possible. And there’s no easing up with later starts early in the week; seven days from midday is hard yards.
Tab: No
Pokies: No
From the BAH cheeseburger, fries ($25) to the Ravens Creek pork tomahawk, 600g ($75) served with mustard fruits and braised leeks, all is better level pub food. A wonderful red, Bloody Hill Cab/Sav blend, Yarra Valley ($18) is superb.
HIGHLIGHT/S:
Main. Fish pie, $39. The line up of ingredients read thus; goldband snapper, trout, prawns, dill, all richly and generously filled into the puff pastry shell. Certain pubs have go-to never to be removed from menu dishes.
This is their signature, and it’s that good (blob of mash would elevate this again).
Something Different to Eat: Pigs head croquette, $8. Just the richest mouthful of pork, great covering keeping it all together and served hot.
You don’t think it will fill you up; it does. Don’t pass on it if you come here.
Surcharges: 10 per cent Sundays.
Summary: Start to finish the experience at the Builders Arms is first rate. Traditional old pub throughout, you genuinely step back in time such is the old world everything here that you could imagine being in the midst of the 6o’clock rush.
The only thing refined here is the service/food/snacks, which screams modern sharp pub food. Ditto the wine and well prepared beer.
Curiously you ask yourself why is this the chosen one (of many) pubs in Melbourne that has been totally bankable, basically for decades?
IT is the same since a last visit bordering on 15 years ago; the only change is the loud red (couches, flowers, napkins) dining room to a more conventional colour palette.
The answer is simple: The team at the Builders Arms just gets it right. The great pub experience lives on here.