Pub of the Week: Essendon Hotel, Essendon
Press PLAY to hear Tony Leonard’s full review
Essendon Hotel
Where: 914-918 Mt Alexander Road, Essendon
Phone: (03) 8352 4235
Internet: www.theessendonhotel.com
SCORE: 14.1/20
OCTOBER 24
VENUE: The Essendon Hotel, at the roundabout up from the Moonee Ponds Junction, is a double storey, neat looking pub with a bullnose verandah, that has been a mainstay over its trading life (O’Sullivans Shibeen previously) as a reliable go-to for any occasion.
Its primary business at street level is running a traditional pub that they achieve with aplomb.
Open Wed-Sun, the pub has a sharp modern look to it (sandblasted brick/sealed concrete floors), a brightly illuminated bar to your left greets you: the whole rectangular room is deceptively long with some small intimate areas to your right to dine.
Staff is never too far away and willing to help, and the menus stride a nice balance between new and old favourites.
There are some nice weekly offers; steak, chips/salad gravy ($25 – Wed), schnitty/parma full plate ($20/25), music Saturday, happy hour Friday.
Tab: No
Pokies: No
Starters are genuinely different to the run of the mill. Grilled prawns skewers, chilli, garlic herbs, 5/$22, miso bean fritters, beetroot hummus ($17), potato croquettes, manchego cheese, saffron aioli, (5/$19.5) are an interesting sample of what the kitchen is aiming for.
Mains also have touches of difference. Chilli prawn linguine ($35), is both plentiful and spicy.
Braised beef cheeks ($36), arrive with truffle mash, dutch carrots, RWJ, and while a 300g Sirloin, is your entry level steak ($46), being fully plated (truffle mash, seasonal veg, sauce) is value in these times.
No CD on tap, but a pot of Stone & Wood Pacific makes for an excellent substitute ($8).
Wine per glass is $14.5 (av), Springton Riesling ($13pg) made for good shopping (website/actual list at odds).
HIGHLIGHT/S:
Entree. Pan seared scallops (3/$21). In warmed shells, the scallops have two pieces in each. Supported by a tasty parsnip puree and seaweed salad. Just a perfect start, filling, but as good a flavour combination in an entree you will find. Well done.
Something Different to Eat: Southern Italian meatballs (3/$22). Ragu, parmesan accompany, and these beauties shone out as a perfect share before mains.
This cooking from the kitchen certainly reflects its aim to provide everything made on the premises rather than import. More power to them.
Surcharges: 10 per cent Sundays/15 per cent public holidays.
Summary: The current owners have been trading consistently and successfully for years here (eight) after earning their stripes in regional Victoria.
The pub doesn’t miss a beat, everything in its place.
From an imaginative menu, good staff, modern comforts, the Essendon has been a welcome addition to the suburb, and its popularity is evident whenever you go there.
Well worth a visit.