Pub of the Week: Gardiner Hotel, Malvern
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Gardiner Hotel
Where: 64 Glenferrie Rd, Malvern
Phone: 8840 4889
Internet: www.gardinerhotel.com.au
SCORE: 14.4/20
APRIL 17
VENUE: Discovering new life after being a local bank branch, the Gardiner has been transformed into a three level pub by the ever expanding juggernaut that is Australian Venue Co. (AVC).
From this southern part of Glenferrie Road, once a desert for pubs, now has sprung to life (Angel Tavern recently reopened) and here is an all purpose, family friendly venue, that is, pardon the pun, most bankable for your leisure dollar.
The ground floor hosts cream and brown hues, one side very much the public bar, with an expansive dining room, expansive banquettes and comfy, rattan chairs the main features to its left.
No TAB/No Pokies.
Elevators take you to the terrace, sufficiently enclosed with separate bar/dining and further up (about half a storey) is the rooftop, a total win in warmer weather.
The trademark of AVC is training and again this is well placed. Young staff is courteous and attentive, with a watchful eye ensuring a beat is not missed. Both light and airy, but warmth for the bitterly cold, the Gardiner, after a relatively young life, is becoming a much loved favourite.
Happy Hours (Thurs-Fri) sees pints (hmmm) at a most reasonable $11/each, supported by wines/cocktails etc. Good shaves on all.
The meals here are better level pub food, nice touches throughout entrees and mains. Quality good and priced appropriately. Plenty of wine selection, not running to a predictable format.
The Gardiner is in its pub infancy but already has established itself as a desirable place to meet and greet.
MENU: The menu is genuinely interesting with a good mix of pub favourites and interesting plates not normally on standard menus. Let’s look at the starters. Pork rillette ($26) with orange jam, pickled shallot, cornichons, sourdough, or chorizo and manchego croquettes, (3/$22) with smoked paprika mayo, tomato, and best, made in house.
Mains again, while priced to the mark, offer different, e.g, roast cauliflower, almond and currant salsa, smoked hummus ($31) or lamb and mushroom pie ($34) red wine, lamb, mushroom, seeded mustard sauce.
Wine list covers all bases, popular labels such as Innocent Bystander/Vasse Felix/Tellurian are priced around $16-17pg.
Average Prices:
Entrees/starters: $20
Mains: $35
Desserts: $16
Surcharges: 15 per cent public holidays
Beer: Carlton D schooner $12.20
Wine: $16 pg
Roast: $37
Tab: No
Pokies: No
Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; Gardiner Hotel, Malvern, 250g porterhouse ($47) chips, peppercorn sauce, bearnaise.
HIGHLIGHT/S:
Main: Chicken schnitzel ($33) with caper salsa, skin on chips, salad, gravy. Whether the humble schnitty is in vogue, or they are being produced with better everything, the Gardiner Hotel version was a ripper.
Thick, moist, golden brown. Liked the caper salsa in support. Very good.
Something Different to Eat: Hervey Bay scallops (3/$27), sage and brown butter dressing. Yes expensive, but perfectly cooked, heat with the right give through the meat, dressing excellent. We know what shellfish costs but at $9 each was absolutely delicious.
Summary: Again another piece to the gargantuan pub portfolio of AVC, and the trademark are all there. Top food/staff/amenities. In the short space of time, and with the right investment, AVC has gone from a handful of venues to 57 in Victoria. The Espy (St Kilda) to the Anglers (Maribyrnong); The Auburn to the Imperial (CBD).
Reminder: Few if any of AVCs pubs has gaming, so its food and drink deliver a bottom line to its investors. And it doesn’t look like stopping. Each of the venues is very well run.
And free tip? There’s likely an AVC near you. Download their APP – The Pass. There’s a win or two there.