Pub of the Week: Grandview Hotel, Brunswick West
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Grandview Hotel
Where: 47 Pearson St, Brunswick West
Phone: 9380 8606
Internet: www.grandviewbrunswick.com.au
SCORE: 14/20
JUNE 6
VENUE: Triple storey Victorian, the dark gold paint starting to peel, the Grandview in Brunswick West is an imperious sight, in an ever diminishing part of our heritage in Melbourne.
Backstreet pubs basically don’t exist (outside some in Fitzroy/Collingwood), but here with its old world expansive public bar, wood everywhere, through to a sedate dining area (set over two parts) and a peek a boo kitchen, the Grandview has cemented a long and loyal clientele, using this as a multi purpose venue to catch up on all matters family.
Function area upstairs, with heavy drapes, polished boards, fireplace, heritage colours could be a picture from ‘Country Life’ circa 1960s. More power to the ‘Guvnors in retaining this space.
But the everyday has that front bar we long for, that sadly are few and far between. Pool table set aside, Fox Footy going but not intruding, a recent Sunday visit bore witness to its popularity.
And three days/week, there’s a generous meal deal. Trivia Wednesday, free pool Sunday, weekend happy hour; this is a good package.
Tab: No
Pokies: No
Food and drink have nice touches, from starters such as cheeseburger spring rolls, big mac sauce ($15) to Korean crispy chicken wings, Gochujang sauce, ginger, garlic, soy and sesame seeds (12/17); Mains offer fish parma, barramundi, sugo, mozzarella, capers, olives, salad, chips ($31) or perhaps chargrilled lamb skewers, hummus, cherry tomato salad, w/toasted ciabatta ($30).
Fine pot of CD ($7.5), punchy wine list, different, around $14 per glass. Adelina Polish Hill Riesling ($14.5 per glass) was an excellent choice. Everything ticks over so well here.
HIGHLIGHT/S:
– Beef and stout pie, mash/weg, $32, the richness of the meat, flakiness of pastry, fine mash and veg, has this one a delightful, tasty and filling treat.
Great heat to the finish means this was one to take your time, without the worry of the pie going cold. My preference is for fully encased, not with a lid, but to be fair, you would have been hard pressed to find fault with this.
Something Different to Eat: Momos, traditional Nepalese chicken dumplings in tomato, herb, peanut spiced sauce $18e/28m.
The push in 2026, in line with pressure on finances, is to come up with different and interesting starters at a friendly price. Remember the money’s in the grog, not the food. First time for these beauties on a pub menu. Well done.
Surcharges: None.
Summary: In essence the backstreet inner suburban pub is a relic of an era long gone. From a communal, borderline secretive society, now to a range of anodyne flats/town houses, very few remain: the outer shell the only forlorn landmark.
So good folk of Brunswick/East/Central/West, Moonee Ponds, Essendon, support the Grandview.
The offer is personal and warm, it’s owner/operator so they work that bit harder to please.
Be assured, the reward is there.
Image: iStock