Pub of the Week: Holgate Brewhouse, Woodend
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Holgate Brewhouse
Where: 79 High St, Woodend
Phone: 5427 2510
Internet: www.holgatebrewhouse.com
SCORE: 14.5/20
AUGUST 15
VENUE: This is a great success here. Holgate Brewing came into existence over 25 years ago, a time when independent brewing (away from the monstrous commercials), was still in its infancy.
What foresight was shown, with the acquisition of an old brick corner pub – Keatings – in this picturesque town Woodend, around an hour from Melbourne.
Lets stick with the pub. Typical ol’ country pub, with a compact front bar, colorful leadlight windows made even more cosy with overhanging glassware, bric a brac aplenty, with scattered tables and chairs. The footy goes quietly in the corner.
Like many older pubs, there’s a number of areas to eat, catering for all numbers but Anslow St room is a space trapped in time, heritage colours, prints and a fireplace. Modest looking for sure, but neat, tidy and something you’d expect for a pub like this.
TAB: No
Pokies: No
Starting with the beer, the arsenal of Holgate taps in the bar represents a large sample of their work from Draught Lager, Australian XPA/American IPA, Extra Special Bitter, Paddington Marmalade IPA and Irish Stout.
The lead item is Mount Macedon Pale Ale ($6.5/pot) and an excellent example of this ever popular style.
Entrees are well thought out and price mainly mid-high teens such as, porcini mushroom arancini ($18) mixed ‘shrooms’, truffle mayo ($18), Jack Daniels spicy chicken wings ($21) w/blue cheese, (tried and had real depth of flavour from the JD), pan fried saganaki ($18), kefalograviera cheese, poached figs, lemon and orange.
Main options have a real flair to them. Tried was the pan roasted barramundi fillet served with leek, kipfer potato, dill, chili, green papaya and seaweed salad ($36).
Skin crip, flesh white and plentiful, this ever-present fish stood up well in comparison to brethren throughout the pub landscape.
Twice cooked pork belly ($34) with creamy pea and potato mash, broccolini and honey mustard dressing provides the envy, ditto the Holgate stroganoff pie ($34) tender beef check, smokey bacon and mushrooms with an added flash of rich full cream.
It was a pot, rather than fully encased pie, but nonetheless a fine looking plate of food.
Small wine list, lot of locals, highlighted by the prince of Rieslings from the area, Granite Hills @ $16pg/64/btle, if you are in a group, the bottle price is good shopping.
HIGHLIGHT/S:
You will shop well from any part of the Holgate’s menu but save room for the dessert of chocolate lava cake, w/ chocolate ganache and vanilla ice cream ($16), yes.
Something Different to Eat: Winter roast (beef, very good), vegetables, gravy (very good) Yorkshire pudding (sadly way too thick, its look resembling a tart).
But interesting from the choice of veg, roast potato, brussel sprouts (yes!!), kale. That’s it. All fine there but? (I may be out of step here but a pub roast surely has some more obvious choices?).
Surcharges: N/A.
Summary: So the Holgate story has grown from the back shed, to state of the art production in massive tanks to a tasting taproom, merchandise area, etc.
It is mighty impressive, a testament to what can be achieved.
My focus is on the pub itself and this one is the type of place that is a ripping destination to have that Sunday drive and while away the time in a warm, old country boozer serving up top notch plates (still not sure about the veg selection for the roast of the day), but this pub is a delightful piece in a gorgeous part of Victoria.
Holgate and Woodend: A perfect match.