Pub of the Week: Hotel Lincoln, Carlton
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Hotel Lincoln
Where: 91 Cardigan St, Carlton
Phone: 9958 8663
Internet: www.hotellincoln.com.au
SCORE: 16/20
JUNE 13
VENUE: The Lincoln Hotel has been acknowledged as one of Melbourne’s best for the past 25 years at least and the evidence presented last Sunday confirms its iconoclastic status.
Eight years have passed since a last visit and while it’s a no-brainer that it should be great again, the question constantly asked is why?
The exterior, corner of Cardigan/Queensberry, is neither here nor there: sandy tiles, cream paint work above, seven tables set out in Cardigan Street.
Ancient Melbourne pub, 1854 commencement, it really looks like it’s 170 years old. The Costello family’s (Peter/Tim/Seb) antecedents were the original Guv’nors.
Inside it’s tiled floors, oblong bar, heritage prints and colours; the nod to the past is obvious but it’s not overdone.
Front bar, footy and fire quietly going, constant stream of patrons take block at the bar, or through to the dining rooms for catch ups/birthdays.
The Lincoln is figuratively bursting at the seams and its only 1pm on a wet, cold Sunday arvo. Service is spot on; ditto food and wine. Better level for sure, but still a strong pub heart beating.
Two hours later, the atmosphere has not abated, and the pub is open seven days a week, 10-12 hours. They are hard yards.
TAB: No
Pokies: No
Better level starters offer ‘Wildpie’ boar dim sims (4/$22), or fried chicken ribs, fermented chilli ($21) that make a welcome change from the usual.
Mains cover chicken schnitty ($31), curried scallop pie, both full plated ($30), kangaroo fillet, celeriac, red cabbage, cauliflower blossom, pickled feijoa, saltbush, jus ($38).
These are a mere sample of the kitchen’s capabilities.
Beer covers the familiar e.g CD and different such as Kaiju Crisp Lager (Dandenong South), or Communion Mango Sour (Burnie). Taps always on rotation. Wine list is extensive (three pages), local and overseas, and offers a few per glass options from $13. Start at $55/bottle and go as high as you can afford.
HIGHLIGHT/S:
– Fish of the day, $39, crisp skin mulloway with pancetta, saffron potato, borlotti beans, spinach, velouté, quinoa cracker. This is superior level FOD.
Brilliant fleshy tile of fish, skin perfect, blindingly white, this should be the standard for all pubs doing pub/grilled fish. The support crew on the plate supporting the mulloway speaks for themselves.
Something Different to Eat: Devilled egg, whipped cod roe, caperberry and bottarga, $8, again this confirms a different approach to entrees in pubs.
This was delightful, but further examination of the menu reveals there’s seven or eight different things you could try.
Surcharges: 1.65 per cent on cards.
Summary: The Lincoln is a brilliant link to Melbourne’s past. Too many pubs have been transformed (read as gone to become units), or as eyesores (Great Western, King St), so this is why the retention to our history is vitally important.
Ten years into Ian Ling’s stewardship, the Lincoln doesn’t miss a beat. And while this Liverpudlian understands local pubs, he has created a perfect British/Australian feel to it; a universal, all ages, all budget appeal.
This pub is a genuine Melbourne bucket list. Just go.
Image: iStock