Pub Of the Week: Napier Hotel, Fitzroy

210 Napier St, Fitzroy.

Ph: 9419 4240

https://www.thenapierhotel.com.au/

When?: 1 March 2024.

Summary:

The Napier Hotel is simply wonderful. Like its first cousin just up the street, Union Club in Gore, the Napier has been a fixture of the inner north for years. And this applies equally to both: These two pubs are Victorian Hospitality treasures.

In the quiet of Napier St, adjacent to the Fitzroy Town Hall, the Napier buzzes along. Double storey brick, half height tiles, light painted exterior (with oversized Melbourne Bitter sign protruding), on entering it is an unashamed shrine to the Fitzroy Football Club. The image of one of their greatest, Kevin Murray, is omnipresent. Glorious leadlight windows are a reminder of the past.

And the most interesting curio in a pub anywhere in Australia? An old black and white TV with a distorted fuzz looking back at you. Somehow it works.

Small dining tables ring the perimeter of the small bar, great beer is being poured from Carlton D ($7/pot), but Bentspoke, Stone/Wood, Wolf of the Willows are fine indies represented. A labyrinthine puzzle of rooms, for dining, or a game of pool and beer garden sets it out beautifully.

Wine list is small, averages at $13pg., and O'Leary Walker Riesling was chosen and loved.

Pokies: No.

TAB: No.

The menu is better level pub grub, priced reasonably including Scotch Fillet Steak sanga, full whack, at $30., All burgers $25, and a plate of Spaghetti Marinara, (mussels, prawns, squid, fish), $32 and generously served.

And the showstopper?: The Bogan, a fixture on the menu forever and while it’s a burger, it’s more than
that. It’s the Napier’s Calling Card. $32, made up of minute steak, chicken snitty, bacon, egg, potato cake, pineapple, beetroot, onion, tomato, cheddar, wedges. And salad. (Has to be a gag).

Some great specials tried were;

• Roast Chicken. $28. A perfectly roasted half chook, crisp skin, lemon breadcrumb stuffing, asparagus, peas, roast carrots, gravy. Perfect Sunday lunch,
• Char Grilled Marlin steak $38. The big fillet arrives medium and is supported by clams, romesco, silverbeet, sweet potato, anchovy butter to make an excellent fish main, tricked up cleverly. Good eating,

The only rules are no pub crawls, bucks or hens nights. The Napier is a pub for people who love going to pubs for more than just a drink.

Twas also the drinking home of Guy Pearce’s wonderful character, Jack Irish, the magnificent ABC series of the recent past.

Simple message: Just Go.

SCORE: 15.5