Pub of the Week: Red Lion Hotel, Kilmore
Press PLAY to hear Tony Leonard’s full review
Red Lion Hotel
Where: 43-45 Sydney St, Kilmore
Phone: 5783 2517
Internet: www.redlionhotelkilmore.com
SCORE: 13.4/20
SEPTEMBER 12
VENUE: A gold rush pub of the 1850s, a five year hiatus from trading around 2020, colourful characters being believed to own the Red Lion some 20 years ago, it is fair to say this pub has witnessed the hospitality roller coaster throughout its life.
But with pubs seemingly being the “new black”, never before has this commodity been traded more vigorously at prices that require nerves of steel.
And now the Red Lion comes into the picture. Tough town Kilmore is, and winning the hearts and minds of locals is tricky, but early evidence is the reopened and revitalised pub is indeed winning this battle.
Still a work in progress, the front bar is tight and compact creating its own atmosphere, with the bluestone brickwork untouched (good) adding another layer of warmth. Footy and races play along unobtrusively.
A few steps up and the elevated and modern dining room is set out spaciously with comfortable chairs, good cutlery and friendly staff buzzing about. To the rear, the work continues at pace for the summer months, but indications are this area will be screamingly popular.
Tab: No
Pokies: No
10 appetisers, 16 mains, four desserts make up the menu, and to be fair have neat touches to them and are priced reasonably. Same deal with the beer and wine list: Good.
Starters include cheese burger croquettes menu, green tomato ketchup, parmesan crisps ($14), and massively sized Buffalo Wings (6 or 7/$15), shallots, pickled red cabbage, buffalo aioli are some of the biggest seen. This is almost a three share entree and fairly priced.
Pub offers an express lunch menu, meals are reduced to $20, but not in size. Mains again, are generously plated, and range in price from $26 double beef burger, bacon, mustard, ketchup, cabbage to a massive (350g) bourbon beef cheek, sweet potato crisps, puree and mash ($45).
Well stewed slowly for hours, the beef cheek did indeed fall apart with the gentle touch of a knife.
Wine list has sensible pricing, from $10pg/45/btle and has a number of offerings from nearby locations, e.g, Granite Hills Riesling @ $14pg. Bargain. Absolutely.
And here’s a free tip; order in 250g glasses. An even bigger bargain. (You will see why!).
Good Carlton D, $6pg, and the set up is complete.
HIGHLIGHT/S:
Main. Express lunch, chicken parma, full plated, $20 (normally $30). The winner here is the price. A very good plate of food that has a decent shave from the normal trading price.
This was better than your usual run of the mill, and when the desire hits, sometimes in a pub, you gotta have a parma!
Something Different to Eat: Korean crumbed mushroom burger, $26. Sitting atop of a mix of sorrel, pickled onion, American mustard, kewpie mayo, buffalo mozzarella, chips, this meal makes for a nice diversion from standard beef/chicken offerings.
Will be interesting to see how long it lasts due to its different nature of clientele out there, but more power for putting it on.
Surcharges: None shown.
Summary: Good, solid start to the relaunched Red Lion. Every day from 11:30am till late, this pub moves along to satisfy the locals, who in spite of the size of this town, have one pub at present (Macs) or the local
trackside at the racetrack to choose from.
The pub has been cleaned up and presents a fine family offering, and soon, when the beer garden at the rear is fully functional, the Red Lion will be full steam ahead.
No problems here. Not sure if a pub has ever been called likeable but the new Red Lion is that.
