Pub Of The Week review: Tony Leonard visits the Phoenix Hotel
PUB: Phoenix Hotel.
WHERE? 40 Wallace Avenue, Point Cook.
PHONE: 9037 8700
WHEN? July 1, 2016.
Only six years into its pub life, the Phoenix is fairly typical of a large outer suburban pub but has some nice touches that elevate it above that pack.
The newness is the main thing that strikes you.
The sports bar has all mod cons – thank you Paul Weller – through to the bright, airy dining room (great seating) to the well shaded outdoor area, with plenty of space between everything.
Function rooms for WPA so it is an all purpose big hotel. The pub is generous with its seniors offer.
The pub is having a crack with its food in variety and difference. As is the adage: some worked/others not so. Staff is young, happy, courteous. Wine offers different and hallelujah is reasonably priced.
The Phoenix, in an area that has been long starved of a pub (Williams Crossing/Point Cook) is a good amenity to have and enjoy.
More fair play to the pub here.
As it is independently owned, the kitchen is happy to stray outside the easily found and expected at big pubs.
I haven’t seen this combination in 21 years; maple roasted pumpkin salad w freekah, snow pea tendrils, raisins, toasted almonds & goats cheese w mustard dressing. $20. There you go.
Crumbed veal sweetbreads w/capers, lemon & sauce gribiche is an entree. $15. There you go again.
The Phoenix can’t be knocked because of a sameness in menu. I have highlighted 2 examples and to be fair steaks, parmas (25) and pastas are still the most popular.
Entrees $12, Mains $27 Desserts $13 are the standard bistro pricing.
Kransky, chill bread. $9.5 Good. Big, thick slices of cheesy bread and topped with slices of kransky (good) and chilli (not so obvious). Another take on a bread starter.
Pork Sliders. 3 for $14. Good. Neat mini burgers, packed with pulled pork and a spicy coleslaw. Good beer food grazing.
Spaghettini seafood bag w prawns, calamari, mussels & clams tossed with cherry tomatoes & capers, chilli, garlic & white wine $29.0. Variable.
Looked great on arrival and while the seafood was cooked, it was variable with some – the calamari fine, but the prawns not so.
Also included the brown vein which is a no no. Too heavy on the capers – less please. Applaud the ingenuity; but a bit more finesse to pull it off.
Heavy on Carlton portfolio but a good pot of Carlton – $4.50 – had a clean taste. Glasses cared for.
Wine was nicely priced with popular offerings in the mid $30’s.
Penna Lane Riesling $9/glass was a good choice from many offered by the glass.
SERVICE AND STYLE
This is an expansive pub and a small army is required to run it.
The Phoenix was busy on a Thursday lunch time and the predominantly young staff was well drilled and a tick, is the table service.
A misstep with the main Spaghetti dish prevents a higher mark from me. (It’s opinion only). Comparing like with like, the pub stands up well against others of its ilk across Melbourne.