Pub of the Week: The Angel of Malvern, Malvern
Press PLAY to hear Tony Leonard’s full review
The Angel of Malvern
Where: 641 Dandenong Rd, Malvern
Phone: 9435 1722
Internet: www.theangelofmalvern.com.au
SCORE: 15/20
SEPTEMBER 18
VENUE: The Angel of Malvern (TAOM), with its prime location of cnr Dandenong/Glenferrie Roads, seemed destined to remain shuttered after a glorious run of many decades as the Angel Tavern.
What a renaissance here in 2026. From the public bar: sandblasted brick, sealed concrete and timber everywhere and the majestic 90 degree brand new bar, TAOM screams modern but has retained the wonderful pub feel that made this venue so beloved.
Up a level to Flores, beautifully set out for a long lunch with a Mediterranean restaurant offering a range of homemade pasta and antipasti, and a third and final space, lately, for some quieter late night drinks.
But the focus is the public or front bar, with plenty of sport showing on big screens, but not overly intrusive.
The changes made have you scratching your head about previous iterations (was that there?/don’t remember this?) but this pub is so user friendly, it’s only a matter of time before the Angel becomes the big hitter in the inner-east.
Backed up by great food/drink and service, expect this pub to be named amongst the best in Melbourne over the next 12 months.
MENU: TAOM offers smart modern dining, and given the quality of the offerings represent real value.
Slow-cooked lamb and paprika sausage rolls, tomato relish (4/$19), fried buttermilk chicken, aromatic salt, pickles, ranch sauce were bang on starters.
From the grill, a fine main of Bannockburn half chicken, cos salad ranch dressing, reggiano, jus, $38.
Roasted portobello mushroom burger, whipped feta, salsa verde, milk bun, fries at $26 was a departure from the norm. Yes, there’s parmas and meat burgers!
Drinks run along familiar lines and pleasing a pot can be ordered (a lot of newer pubs start at schooners). Beer was well served – CD @8.5/pot. Per glass wine is served either 150/250ml, and starts around $15. Aloomi Riesling @ $15, tried and enjoyed.
Average Prices:
Entrees/Starters: $19
Mains: $32
Desserts: $17
Surcharges: 15 per cent public holidays
Beer: $8.5/pot
Wine: $16 pg
Roast: yes (price not stated)
Tab: No
Pokies: No
Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; Angel of Malvern, 250g O’Connor grain-fed rump cap, pepper sauce, salad, fries, $39.
HIGHLIGHT/S:
Main: 250g southern highlands grain-fed eye fillet, salsa verde, salad, fries, $59. Undeniably at the higher end for a pub main, but this was wonderful eating, and perfectly cooked. With steak, it either hits or misses: Absolutely bang on here.
Something Different to Eat: Starter: Lamb and paprika sausage rolls, (4/$19). Right starter, pastry perfect, tasty, you could easily pass on a main and enjoy another serve of these beauties.
Summary: In another life, pre social media, TAOM was the go to for over 28s, Sunday nights drinks, catch ups etc, when it was simply the Angel Tavern.
Footballers could gather here without the fear of being captured on iPhone and get up to some shenanigans which wouldn’t be tolerated by club and community today. Soft Cell or ABC serenaded the hordes in the background.
In many respects TAOM is the 2026 version. This iteration is very good: food/drink/ambience reflective of our time. Heaven knows what the freight has been bringing this pub back to life, but it is money well spent as the interior alone of the public bar is excellent.
This is another example of the growing confidence in Melbourne pub life. The Angel of Malvern, for no other reason than that, deserves to succeed.
Indications are it will.