Pub of the Week: The Park Hotel, Abbotsford
Press PLAY to listen to Tony Leonard’s full review
The Park Hotel
Where: 191 Nicholson St, Abbotsford
Phone: 9427 2030
Internet: www.theparkhotel.com.au
SCORE: 14.5/20
JUNE 5
VENUE: Small pub in Abbotsford, back street, positively heaving on a cold Sunday. Welcome to The Park Hotel, with the best advice given is make sure you book.
Much is packed in; the front bar services a small area, slightly risen is almost an ante room to the rear, sufficient for four tables. Through to a larger dining room and then the beer garden. And it’s come one: come all.
Parents with newborns in prams mingle effortlessly with families giving Fido a day out. Fires provide warmth, all seemingly under the orchestration of the owner. She gives the directions; nothing too much trouble.
Whether this Sunday was a one off, no matter how many people came, all got in. Yet the seamless service, quality of food and drink remained unaffected.
A couple of neat specials during the week – $19/20 eggplant/chicken parmas Tuesdays// steak night Wednesdays and that’s about it.
In essence, the Park doesn’t overcomplicate thighs and it pays off handsomely.
MENU: An excellent menu that causes the reader to examine everything on offer. It is short, on point, with neat touches here and there. That in itself, is one reason to head here. So what’s on offer? Let’s head to the starters;
● Cheeseburger spring rolls, ketchup, mustard lettuce cups (staple here for years) $18//Butter Chicken poutine, curry, chips, cheese, cream (be my guest!) $24//Crispy eggplant, sesame dressing, miso and tofu puree, $18.
And another four or so, similarly with a clever dash or two. Same deal with the mains. For example;
● Philly cheesesteak, American cheese, onion, Dijon mustard, jalapeños, chips, $26//Kangaroo Au Poivre, rare-roasted kangaroo fillet, fried chat potatoes, rocket salad, pepper sauce, $36//Tofu Katsu Udon, crumbed tofu, tonkatsu sauce, udon noodles, mustard greens, spring onion, chilli, furikake, $29.
Testament to the popularity was the amount of meals, seemingly different than the one before, emerging from the kitchen with monotonous regularity.
A range of beer and styles are offered e.g Bodriggy Stingrays Draught, Mountain Culture IPA, CoConspirator, Weiss Bar Sour (yep). There is a Carlton tap as well.
Wine list is small from lesser known producers, another tick in my book. Range Life Pinot G and Supernatural Pinot N, both around $14 were sampled and enjoyed.
Average Prices:
Entrees/starters: $18
Mains: $32 (steaks from $39)
Desserts: $15
Surcharges: None displayed
Beer: Carlton D pot, $7.5
Wine: $14pg
Roast: Yes, $28
Tab: No
Pokies: No
Jack Ginnivan Steak Index (JGSI): This week; Park, Abbotsford. 250g Porterhouse, $39 with chips or hassleback potatoes and cabbage salad red wine jus, pepper sauce, gravy or garlic butter.
HIGHLIGHT/S:
Main: Pork schnitzel, vodka sauce, mozzarella, basil, fried chat potatoes, rocket salad, $34.
Delivered on all levels: Size, taste, cooking. A perfectly cooked pork schnitty, generous portion, lovely flavours to support, this was a prime example to forego the chicken option.
Something Different to Eat: Beef rendang curry puffs w/satay sauce, $16. This is a clever starter with a spicy big centre of stewed beef, soft shell cover and a punchy satay. A couple of these at the bar and you would be well contented.
Summary: On its homepage, the Park proudly declares, “158 years and still going strong”. There is nothing to challenge this assertion.
From the time you walk, the old left hand side of the brain tells you ‘yep you want to be here’.
Noisy, comfortable, inviting but above all providing fine food and drink, the Park remains a much loved pub.
Take the children, any age: They’ll get it.