Pub Of The Week: Tony Leonard reviews Doyles Bridge Hotel

Doyles Bridge Hotel

Where? 1 Nepean Highway, Mordialloc.
When? August 13, 2021.

8587 1000
www.doylesbridgehotel.com.au

VENUE

What a fine aesthetic welcome to the Mornington Peninsula is Doyles Bridge Hotel in Mordialloc with its glorious sandy brick facade, interior of cream/blue covering a stack of territory from the River Bridge to the drive through bottle shop and car park.

In spite of crowd restrictions due to Covid, the main focus was the dining room with its inside traditional/outside decking taking in the view of the creek and bay beyond that. (Cafe bar not operational at that time).

But a pub that has 3 dining options is elevated again with function/wedding areas that take full advantage of the views and can back it up with a professional service honed under the stewardship of one family for a 38 year run.

But the kicker? It was flying at 1140 on a chilly Wednesday afternoon and with no booking then there was only a handful of tables available from Midday.

Its popularity is long established, and the Sports bar doesn’t suffer by comparison; it too is spacious and looks fantastic. All in all, this is a bankable pub to go to whatever the occasion.

From Moridalloc to Portsea at the bay’s end, the Bridge Hotel stacks up very well against its brethren.

FOOD/DRINK

Good solid pub offerings, all bases covered, with an armada of staff providing table service. The Bridge bar, Cafe bar, and Public/Sports bar (TAB/Pokies) have a commonality of offer at varying price points.

Entrees head down a familiar line with dips and sharing plates, but the offer of a 2 sized (entree/main) is something that should be more available in pubs, such as Portarlington Mussels w/white wine, galic, chilli, baguette (18.5/26.5), or an Open Souvlaki eye fillet, pita, tzatziki, greek salad (25/37).

Mains are generously and fully plated with pasta dishes from Lasagne (20.9)  to Spaghetti Marinara (everything included – $36.5), Grilled Rockling w/greek salad and chips (37) up to the showstopping Seafood Platter for 2 at $185.  Be hungry!

Beer is well cared for – Carlton Draught in bistro was 6.4/pot with a good wine list, priced at the mark in pub bistros (12pg/55 btle).  Pikes Riesling chosen, very good @12.25 pg.

The average prices (bistro)  are;

• Entrees (more pared back mains) – $20
• Mains –   $33
• Dessert – $13

Tried was;

• Saganaki, Lemon wedge, balsamic drizzle. $17.90. Well executed dish that can cause an issue (like pub calamari), if not cooked right and served hot.  Good sized triangle, crusty golden/salty exterior, creamy interior. Good start.
• Eye fillet, 180g, w/vegetables, housemade chips, RWJ. $35.50. Cooked just under MR, (which enhanced the texture), the steak was excellent and filling.  Broccoli, beans, bok choy served al dente (maybe a tad hotter but no issue) with excellent chips made for a great pub main.
• Roasted vegetable salad. $18.90.  Comprising a large bowl of roasted beetroot, mushroom, zucchini, carrot, sweet potato, walnuts, leaves.  Good, substantial meal –  normally taleggio, substituted with feta – very flavoursome.

SUMMARY

And it is with a touch of melancholy that closes this review as, after 38 years, Peter Doyle and family move on at the end of August.

By any measure, this is a staggering run at one venue and to witness it develop (2002 last visit when it was the best pub that year for DeBortoli) to the extent that it has, bears testament to how well run the Bridge has been.

As the gateway to the Peninsula, this is a good looking pub as a picture postcard starter, and in many respects, the new operators walk into a pub that is such a solid well founded business.  Steady as she goes, just add water, the pub based on a pre Midday crowd in the bistro, confirms how well run it is, and has been during the Doyle family tenure.

Well played.

SCORE:  14/20