Thanks for logging in.

You can now click/tap WATCH to start the live stream.

Thanks for logging in.

You can now click/tap LISTEN to start the live stream.

Thanks for logging in.

You can now click/tap LATEST NEWS to start the live stream.

LISTEN
Watch
on air now

Create a 3AW account today!

You can now log in once to listen live, watch live, join competitions, enjoy exclusive 3AW content and other benefits.


Joining is easy.

Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement

Scorcher reviews: Capitano in Carlton

Scorcher Davidson
Article image for Scorcher reviews: Capitano in Carlton

Scorcher reviews: Capitano in Carlton
421 Rathdowne St
Carlton

Click PLAY below to hear Scorcher’s review on 3AW Breakfast

We play hard in Melbourne, so at the end of a gruelling week there’s no better way to wind down than dunking yourself into a luxuriating carb Jacuzzi.

And one of this city’s newest and best places to jump into a pizza-and-pasta tub, bubbles on, is Capitano, a strutting, energetic Italian-American neighbourhood diner in the natural home of the carbohydrate, Carlton.

Brought to you by the team behind Bar Liberty, Capitano elbows its way into a suburb historically thought of as the place to come for Italian food and, even though it’s the new kid on the block, is a serious contender to earn a spot in Carlton’s restaurant leadership group. We could even be witnessing the emergence of a new captain.

Capitano’s menu takes inspiration from chef Casey Wall’s edible adventures through New York City and features bad-ass pizzas with minimal toppings for a maximum slapdown.

The pillowy rims are the best kind: slightly charred and bubbled, beautifully soft and chewy, with the dough structurally sound, unlike the droopy slices you see in NYC.

Our rugged American-style double pepperoni with fresh and aged mozzarella was a little hard to cut but went down very easily.

The showstopper dish for me was a silky plate of chittara (guitar string spaghetti) with clams and a white wine, chili and dashi broth.

Not far behind it was the conchiglie (seashell pasta), a mound of robust pasta that’s been lightly coated with a fresh tomato, chili and butter sauce, and pumped up with a splash of vodka.

There’s just a touch of heat in this dish, like putting a comforting blanket over your knees.

While prices do edge higher than your standard pizza and pasta joint, there is one item on the menu that stands out like a sirloin at a vegan soiree.

The veal parmigiana, a panko-crumbed, bone-in cutlet with glinting blobs of mozzarella, is big enough for two but it would want to be for the price tag; at $65 it must top the table as Melbourne’s most expensive parma.

But that’s an outlier; the other large dishes on the mercifully concise menu range from a far more reasonable $22 to a tad exxy $32.

So the great revival of Carlton continues apace.

Capitano is an easy, breezy joint with a vibe that’s part New York swagger, part Melbourne swish and is a welcome addition to Carlton’s dining arena.

Capitano, 421 Rathdowne St, Carlton; Mon-Thurs, 5.30pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 12-10pm; snacks $6-$20, mains $18-$65

Scorcher Davidson
Advertisement