The ‘kooky’ restaurant proving Italian-Asian fusion is a match made in heaven

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The Village Grae

72 Willsmere Rd

Kew

Where do you go when you want to be greeted at the door with a genuine smile, looked after properly, and sent away feeling like you’ve just had a good time, not just a good meal?

I’m talking about those venues where the owner, the staff or the host give you that old-fashioned hospitality, the genuine welcome at the door, the chat, the feeling that they’re actually glad you’re there.

So I’m putting together a list of places around Melbourne that still do that properly, where service matters, where regulars are known, and where you leave feeling looked after. And if it’s local, that’s an extra bonus.

Because I think I’ve found another one of those places, and it’s The Village Grae in Kew.

It’s tucked into that charming corner of Willsmere Road, inside a handsome brick building with “Est. 1921” stamped proudly above the door, whilst The Village Grae has only been there since late 2024, it genuinely feels like part of that fabric.

And that old-fashioned hospitality is right there from the second you walk in. The staff all wore vests and chains like they were carrying a pocket watch. It wasn’t overly trendy, nor was it trying to be, but there was so much charm in it. 

One of the owners, Mark Henderson was there when we arrived, and he greeted us with a booming welcome before seeing us out the door as well. He had that rare host energy that makes a venue feel instantly looked after.

He and Franco have been in hospitality for years, right back to their trade school days as young chefs. Franco also spent two years with Guy Grossi, and the pair previously worked together on the relaunch of the Portarlington Grand Hotel. 

We started with a French martini, which was exactly the right kind of opening move. Then we had an outstanding Pinot Noir by Georgie Obach, which I was very impressed with, especially for a lower price point! ($48 a bottle, $12 a glass).

They do something called they also do what they call a “Grae Pour” which is a double pour for only a couple of dollars more than their standard, classy.

The staff weren’t overly busy when we went, which honestly only added to the appeal. We sat in the courtyard under grape vines and fairy lights, by the fireplace, it was warm in every kind of way. 

The menu felt like it was made by people with actual appetite and instinct, not by committee. It has that very endearing “we want to cook the things we actually want to eat” feel, which is honestly half the fun.

We started with the Duck Spring Rolls with Thai caramel and Asian garnish, and they were a great opener because they hit both comfort and crunch.

The Chicken Karaage was another highlight. Bonito flakes, angel hair chilli, coriander, sesame seeds, spring onion, crispy shallots and chilli mayo sounds like a lot on paper, but in practice it just means the dish keeps giving you different things with every bite. Not traditional by any stretch but still very yummy.

Then there were the Italian Beef Meatballs with Napoli, parmesan, basil and sourdough, and this was one of those dishes that quietly wins you over. It’s familiar, but not dull. The sauce had that rich tomato comfort you want from a meatball dish, and the parmesan and basil brought it back to life with enough freshness to stop it from becoming heavy. 

But the 8 Hour Slow Braised Beef Cheek was the real anchor of the meal. This is the kind of dish that tells you a kitchen is willing to take its time. The beef cheek was tender and deeply flavoured, the kind of slow-cooked richness that feels generous rather than just hefty.

The herb and parmesan mash underneath gave it a creamy, savoury base, the carrot added a bit of sweetness, and the beef jus tied the whole thing together with that glossy, concentrated depth you want from a proper braise. It was warming, composed, and very satisfying, the sort of plate that makes a meal feel complete.

The whole night has that easy, hospitable rhythm too, and that’s what I want to celebrate in this list of Melbourne places. A place where the host knows your name, where the staff have time for a chat, where you feel like you’re part of something rather than just a transaction.

Mark was that face and force at the door. He was such a positive presence, and he saw us out the door as well. You feel looked after from the second you walk in until the moment you leave.

Images: Supplied