Tony Leonard’s Pub of the Week summary for the first half of 2025
Press PLAY to hear Tony Leonard’s review of the first half of the year
SUMMARY: DeBortoli Pub of the Week – 25 January – 30 June 2025
JUNE 27
Overview: Scotch eggs, big roasts, interesting starters /desserts
And so onto the snapshot of the first half of 2025 of pubs in Victoria, best summed up above.
Publicans are becoming more adventurous in enticing people to have something a little different to eat, whilst getting you in the door. To do that, the starter menu is getting a real makeover from smaller, independent hoteliers ascribing to the truism that all the money’s in the drink, not food.
From a consumer POV, the best news is the cost of beer has remained static for 12 months and will continue that way for the foreseeable future. (The more you drink, the more you save!!).
In saying that the mean price of beer (about $7.5/pot, standard commercial) is still high, made even more expensive when businesses whack on a surcharge of 15 per cent on weekends.
You do ask yourself how this has happened (surcharges) when prior to Covid this really didn’t exist. Didn’t the Monday-Fridays prices cover the weekend, whilst still allowing a good return to the operator?
Highlights: The first six months provided some wonderful surprises; Cricketers PMelb: Cumberland sausage scotch egg ($14) truffle mayonnaise, petit herbs.
As 2024 was the year for meats/seafood to be skewered in pubs, this year is shaping up as the year of the scotch egg.
The golden version at the ‘hole in the wall’ in Cruikshank St, is a taste bomb of meat/egg/breadcrumb, and when split, is ideal for sharing.
Something Different to Eat: Stay at the Cricketers. Sundae $14. Vanilla bean ice cream, pretzels, fruit loops, honeycomb, marshmallow, chocolate sauce. It worked!!
Lion Wombat, St. Kilda: Scotch egg, mustard, $10. Tightly packed chicken mince, runny egg (good trick), light coating to hold it together made for a fine starter.
Another tasty small offering is the rockling sandwich, chunky tartare ($16). Fresh crisp fish soldiers, lightly fried, a treat.
Rainbow, Fitzroy: 101 club. An above bar blackboard with 157 names (at last count) of loyal troops to have that many beers (101) from here. Reward? A free massive vessel of choice (about four pints, maybe more) to enjoy. Go around again, your own branded pot, and lifetime discount. You beauty.
The Rainbow did the best starter so far this year: Korean fried popcorn chicken, polenta crust, spicy gochugang sauce, $18.
Guilford Hotel: Proper roast. Pork, moist, plentiful, crackling and 10 vegetables, i.e, roast potato, pumpkin, cauliflower, carrot, peas, beans, broccoli, parsnip, onion, choko.
Like our British counterparts, the Sunday pub roast is a joyous thing, with the ensemble of meat and vegetables important in equal parts. The Guilford takes this on with relish and is one of the best pub roasts this year.
Pub roasts should be no more than $32, and no shortcuts should be taken; everything from scratch.
REOPENINGS: Two pubs have come back to life and are off and running.
Morning Star, Williamstown. Genuinely surprised why this pub has such a chequered trading history. The MS is away from the hub of beautiful Williamstown, is always doing better level pub food and is seen as a local for the locals.
The iteration is wonderful, its beer garden specious and sunny and has a brilliant can-do attitude for service. Baked halloumi, eggplant kasundi, lime ($18) – what a brilliant flavour combination.
Blackwood Hotel: Now this one gets a special mention, as much for the internal makeover but having the balls to stump up and reopen in a small town. The pub, and all it has to offer, reflects the quaint township.
It’s not a weekend destination; seven days a week trading, long hours. More power to the Blackwood.
THE ICON: Lincoln Hotel: Still one of the gold standard pubs of Melbourne. After an eight year absence, the pub wasn’t missing a beat. Why is it so? The interior reflects an age long gone, not too shabby but a little rough around the edges.
The food is elevated pub food, from wild boar dim sims to curried scallop pie, it’s warm and comfortable but the kicker on a bitterly cold Sunday was a constant all ages stream of people from 12:30 on.
IF you have a pub and it’s not working come here: there is a trick or two to be learned.
THE SHOWSTOPPER: Dick Whittington Tavern, St. Kilda: Saganaki, honey, raisins, flaming white sambuca. While everyone is so food savvy nowadays, this was a throwback for the ages.
Hot pan, cheese, honey, raisins, brought to the table and then the alcohol (and good glug too) is poured on and lit in front of you. It brought back a memory of being taken to the RACV club and the waitstaff lighting the crepe.
The wonderment is still there. Not sure if it’s financially viable, but thank you.
ACHIEVEMENT: Bill Perry, AHA Publican of year, London Tavern Richmond.
Each year the AHA recognises the best in the business with the Nikakis award. To draw a comparison, this is the Brownlow Medal of pub hospitality.
For Bill, and his family, there has been a lifetime of running pubs and his stewardship over many years at the London Tavern is the equal of any. This pub is THE go to pre a game at the ‘G’, and whatever the weather, the pub is forever busy.
His demeanour is modest and unfussed. This award is well deserved.
IN CLOSING: Good quality pubs to start the year. Thankfully the theme of community and comfort is never more present nor better delivered in current times.
Around 30 years ago, then president of AHA, the late Peter Burnett launched the …“It’s all going on at a pub near you” campaign.
How prescient he/it was as, by and large, have shaken an old tired image to be the spot for all social interaction. Peter, you were a true visionary.
Again tips/comments on pubs, pls email tony.leonard@nine.com.au
Image: iStock